Since the late 1800’s, Olasagasti has been preserving fine seafood with a process perfected over the course of more than 100 years. Olasagasti is a company born out of the merging of two beautiful cultures, a union that has lived on to bless us with elegant tins of full-flavored conservas. Made with centuries-old know-how, their secret ingredient is the Cantabrian Sea. Reaching across 500 miles of the Basque coast, its chilly waters provide expansive breeding grounds for bounteous seafood.

Salvatore Orlando was sent from his home of Sicily to the Cantabrian Coast, specifically Getaria, Gipuzkoa, in the late 1800’s. He was the first to introduce long-standing Italian salting techniques to the Basque community. In Getaria, he fell in love and created a life with Simona Olasagasti, bearing six children and a handful of family business ventures. Conservas Olasagasti was created as an amalgamation of traditional Italian and Basque ingredients, recipes, and techniques that are packed each in tin or jar, with the utmost care. Today, the grandson of the Olasagasti pioneers runs the factory in Markina, Bizkaia, upholding the philosophies it was founded on.

I began my Olasagsti tasting journey with a tin of the Yellowfin Tuna in EVOO, tastefully packaged in burgundy and gold. At first whiff, a brief moment of nostalgia washed over me. Noting its robust scent, I was reminded of enjoying tuna salad with my siblings as a young kid. I nibbled at the pale colored fish and the memories faded. This yellowfin tuna was nothing like the $.99 can of Chicken of the Sea I once loved. Fished on the high seas, Olasagasti refers to their yellowfin tuna as “the king of the pantry”. It is mild, delicate, and packed with evenly distributed extra virgin olive oil between each flaky layer. After my first bite, I scooped the remaining contents of the tin atop a bowl of beans with a well seasoned broth and finished it with a dollop of crème fraiche for a delicious, nutritious meal.

Olasagasti takes the next step in highlighting their top quality tuna with a variety of meal-in-a-can offerings. These feature both Sicilian and Basque flavors that are meant to simplify and enhance mealtime in a hurry. Seeing as there is a sort of bean-renaissance in the food world today amid the pandemic, I was particularly excited to try the Tuna Fish Fillet a la Toscana, or Tuna Fillets with White Beans.  The simplicity of this tin is an obvious nod to Olasagasti’s Italian roots, since Tuscan cuisine is known for a simple take on utilizing seasonal produce. Packed with carrots, celery, and white beans (a Tuscan favorite) that are perfectly prepared, this tin feels healthy, hearty, and straightforward. I heated it in the oven until the oil was bubbling, doused it in hot sauce (Espinaler, of course), and my belly thanked me. For a more filling meal, try putting it over some rice or cooked greens and finishing it with a little cracked pepper. It would also be a perfect compact meal to carry along on a camping or backpacking trip. Upgrade your mealtime anytime the need arises; this tin will certainly do the trick.

I was hooked on Olasagasti’s composed meal tins after my first one and had to try the Tuna Fillets with Caramelized Onions next. Showcasing their Basque roots, this tin shares characteristics with a Basque dish called Bonito Encebollado, which is traditionally made up of caramelized onions, green peppers, garlic, wine, and bonito tuna. The beauty of this tin is that it takes all of the time and effort out of coaxing the deep, caramel-y flavors from the onions and we get to sit back and enjoy it with little to no effort. I warmed it in the oven for 10-15 minutes and dumped the contents atop a bowl of farro. Topped with basil and cracked pepper to counteract the sweet caramel flavors, the tuna added a light texture with subtle flavor. The farro’s nutty qualities balanced out the intensity from the abundant onions. The most exciting part though, was how the onions, basil, and cracked pepper played together to create a spiced anise-like profile. It was an easy meal that excited my palate and I can’t wait to further experiment with the deep flavors of this tin.

Last but not least, I was especially curious to try the Cantabrian Anchovy and Tuna Paté. There’s just something I find so intriguing about creamy, spreadable seafood. Despite its small size of 110g, the jar holds 5 servings! I assumed my resolve to eat only one serving would fail and instead planned to eat it all in one go, even though Paté is known to be very rich. This fun-size sea paté was nothing short of what you’d expect from a paté, if not better. Comprised of mostly tuna, olive oil, and anchovies, I was delighted by its bright flavor and smooth consistency. The olive oil added a silky emulsion, while the anchovies contributed a briny, umami finish, melting beautifully into the open crumb of a baguette. I succeeded in not devouring the entire jar at once and managed to save some for an afternoon snack. I was pleased to revisit these flavors and to have another small jar to add to my collection thanks to this delicate, gourmet treat.

Unwavering in their commitment to preservation and quality, Matteo Orlando continues to celebrate his grandmother’s surname more than a century later. Although separated by land and sea, the unique fusion of Basque and Sicilian cultures has allowed for Olasagasti to thrive with a unique perspective. Olasagasti said it best when sharing their philosophy, “In other words, just how your grandmother used to eat, with deep respect for what keeps us healthy and active, knowing that good food is good for the soul.” Offering top quality seafood from the Cantabrian Sea that is carefully prepared, crossing cultural boundaries and exuding nothing less than perfection in each tin.

Much of the food world turns to French culinary culture with fervent admiration. As influencers and innovators of an array of culinary techniques and methods, most of us have taken advantage of even the smallest techniques and tips the French have so meticulously developed for the food world. That can mean anything from adding body to a gravy or soup with a roux, enjoying eggs benedict doused in a velvety hollandaise sauce, or simply having a tin of fish with some pickled veggies as an afternoon snack.

Thanks to Les Mouettes d’Arvor, a cannery on the Brittany coast of France, we can enjoy high quality, seasonably harvested, shelf stable seafood with a distinct French flair. The use of ingredients such as butter, Sel de Geurande, composed sauces, and Muscadet wine with fresh cheese are just some of the examples of traditional French ingredients that go into each hand packed tin. More importantly, Les Mouettes only uses fish from boats docking within five miles of the cannery. Talk about local.

For the last few months, a specific tin of mackerel has been all the talk around Caputo’s and it wasn’t until our tinned seafood class that I had the opportunity to have a taste. I was seated alongside a small group of strangers, when Les Mouettes d’Arvor was introduced. Each of us were served a piece of mackerel fillet topped with a generous dollop of a yellow-beige sauce. It met each of us with its acidic, yet sweet aroma and smooth texture that tickled my senses. The infamous mackerel fillets in Mustard and Crème Fraiche! I watched each of my tablemate’s eyes brighten with overwhelming pleasure and desire for more. The full-flavored, meaty mackerel fillets are a delicious bonus in this tin, adding protein and chew, but I must be honest and say the sauce takes the spotlight with its generous application and bold flavor. The mustard and crème fraiche sauce is completely tantalizing, so make sure to have plenty of bread to soak it all up when the fish is gone.

Butter is another backbone ingredient in much of French cuisine. Serving as a rich base for many sauces and stews, it can also be preserved in a tin with succulent sardines. With that said, there is no shortage of satisfaction to be had in Les Mouettes’ Sardines in Butter and Sel de Geurande. The salt is harvested in a nearby coastal region, and combined with high quality French butter, creating a rich golden pool for these unctuous sardines. Both additions serve to amplify the savory, rich qualities of the fish. When pan fried as suggested on the package (beware of the popping butter), they become crispy and flaky with subtle salinity. I hit the splattering, crispy sardines with a dash of smoked paprika for some depth, and enjoyed them with Torres ham chips, cornichons, and Mahon Reserva cheese as accompaniments. You could also serve them over some mashed potatoes, or toss them with some roasted veggies for a more composed meal. As I sipped on a vodka and sweet vermouth cocktail for an easy pairing, I dreamt of my next meal with the leftover butter and fish…scrambled eggs? Definitely.

Offering a selection of seafood rillettes is yet another way Les Mouettes d’Arvor maintains their distinct French-ness. Similar to confit, rillettes are made from meat that is slow-cooked in a fat, shredded, salted, and packed for preservation. Since the French discovered the practice of preservation, there’s no question they know how to enhance them. I opened a small jar of the Rillettes of Mackerel with Mustard Sauce with no reservations and nibbled at the creamy fish with a fork for purely tasting purposes. Sharing remarkably similar ingredients to that of the Mackerel in Mustard and Crème Fraiche, the rillettes expressed different qualities in both the fish and the sauce. The even dispersion of sauce and fish throughout helps to cut some of the acidity from the mustard, and is less messy with a cohesive, creamy texture. Well suited to spread on toast or dip vegetables in, there’s something slightly foreign, yet tantalizing about spreadable, cooked meat or fish. If you haven’t ever had anything of this sort, try a jar of the tuna and cream cheese rillettes, which are milder, and share similarities to a creamy tuna salad. Coming in small reusable jars, any of the Les Mouettes d’Arvor seafood rillettes could be a new kind of treat you should want to try, with many of them including easy serving suggestions.

Since opening in 1959, Les Mouettes d’Arvor has seen success for obvious reasons. Having survived the collapse of the cannery industry in Concarneau, France at that time, they are the last remaining cannery in the region, holding true to quality, tradition, and innovation in the packing and selling of each seafood product offered. They serve to represent the standards that French culinary practices have historically practiced, and in the most approachable and delicious way. From simple sardines in extra virgin olive oil, to salmon rillettes with lemon and dill, there’s an array of fun and unique options to choose from. Have a taste of the Brittany coast by trying Les Mouette’s d’Arvor seafood and falling in amour.

As a well-known and widely loved clothing and gear company, it’s both surprising and unexpected to see the Patagonia brand name printed on a box of tinned seafood. How do they connect? Is it the same Patagonia? Those were my thoughts when I first saw these packages on our shelves.  Patagonia Provisions, a recently added division of a B corporation that has been around since the 70’s, has expanded into selling food items, specifically tinned seafood—which we should all be so excited for!

There’s a lot of talk today of the fragile state of our environment. A lot of that fragility comes from a disconnect between humans and our treatment of the earth as we try to provide for the population and simultaneously grow our economies. Patagonia Provisions started as an effort to try and fix our broken chain, as noted by Yvon Chouinard, CEO and founder of Patagonia. He saw the distance that was being put between people and their food, as well as a loss of respect for the earth, the creatures that inhabit it, and the value of knowing where your food comes from. For example, did you know that mussels are actually one of the most sustainable food sources in the world? By eating mussels, we are actually helping more mussels grow, as written by Paul Greenberg on why mussels might save the planet. Patagonia was originally started as an effort to change the world, but the necessity of buying a winter jacket or sturdy piece of clothing comes around only a handful of times throughout adult life. On the other hand, food is something we interact with multiple times a day, so why not affect the same change from another different, but necessary angle?

Patagonia Provisions is a certified B Corporation, gives 1% of all profits back to the planet just as the clothing brand does, and as of 2017, is also part of the Regenerative Organic Alliance, ensuring fairness to farmers and workers, with strict requirements for farming practices. There’s no shortage of transparency in any effort Patagonia makes—especially with their tinned fish. There is an abundance of information on the package alone, as well as even a little picture of what the contents inside of the tin look like and it’s wholly enticing. You can unfold the box and find notes on the nutrition, flavor, sourcing, and the environmental impact of each tin you enjoy.

Now that we have warmed our hearts, let’s fill our bellies and talk taste, shall we?

A while back, during conservas week here at Caputo’s, I was encouraged to try Patagonia’s Smoked Mussels. Despite my reluctance towards smoked foods I found myself quite pleased with the flavor. There are a lot of them packed in the tin, are lightly smoky, and a little sweet. Sourced off the Galician coast of Spain, where mussels are native to the region, these are smoked naturally over Spanish bay wood and packed in organic olive oil and their own broth. Most recently, a friend suggested I revisit them, but warm the tin in the oven for about 15 minutes before eating with a little bread… I enjoyed them this way for a quick, casual lunch and finished with the satisfaction of having a fully prepared meal. The flavors and fatty components were transformed to change the overall experience in the best way possible, both in flavor and texture.

I enjoyed the Savory Sofrito Mussels next. Sofrito is essentially a traditional Spanish sauce made with onion, garlic, peppers and tomatoes; however, there’s a variety of ways it can be made. This mixture includes bell peppers, onion, sherry wine, spinach, and Spanish paprika. The sauce is incredibly savory, and has borderline tomato-y characteristics without any actually added. I tasted them and instantly felt a familiarity in the flavor…I couldn’t quite figure out what it was. I ended up having the mussels, sauce and all, over a little rice with some roasted carrots and onions, and it clicked! The combination of flavors made me reminiscent of a Spanish style Bolognese. This was not your long Sunday afternoon dinner, we’re talking 20-30 minutes, and a $7 tin of mussels, with more protein, Omega 3’s, and vitamin B-12 than any Bolognese you’ll find.

Another tin I found myself favoring was the Spanish Paprika Mackerel. With similarly rich, meaty qualities of other fish such as salmon or tuna, smothered in a vibrant red oily sauce, these mackerel are approachable in flavor and texture. I dreamed of using a tin in the future to make some mackerel cakes…maybe a little egg, breadcrumbs, peppers, onions, and paprika mackerel blended together and pan-fried? Sounds like a perfect party snack to me. However, without the ability to do anything extensive, I ended up using the last half of the tin over a salad. Being such ample fillets, a fish like mackerel needs a bit of a stronger mix of salad ingredients that won’t easily be overpowered. I could recommend some chopped kale that’s been massaged with a creamy dressing as a simple restaurant-worthy salad, however I opted for a mix of romaine and spinach, complimented with some finely chopped carrots, onions, and peppers, topped with a little bit of Dodoni feta, to add an extra bit of tang. I could go on all day about the fun ways to enjoy any tinned seafood, so get creative, eat it alone, or try both!

I know it may seem a bit odd for a company that has been making jackets and gear for so long to expand to food, but what better way to reach people than through our nourishment? Food helps us connect with not only one another but with the planet so let’s be thoughtful about it. You can have confidence in enjoying a tin of Patagonia Provisions tinned seafood knowing it’s sustainably sourced, responsibly produced, and thoroughly delicious. So let’s change the world, one tin at a time.

As conservas culture takes the U.S. food scene by storm, tinned seafood is becoming a new pantry staple and popping up on hip bar and restaurant menus in cities around America. This historical practice of preserving food in a can, specifically a variety of fish, bivalves and cephalopods, allows us to dive into another culture’s food traditions, participate in this growing trend, and enjoy seafood sourced directly from estuaries and open seas around the world.

Conservas de Cambados began selecting the finest seafood from the estuaries located near their birthplace in Galicia, one of them being Ria de Arousa, the largest estuary in the northwest region of Spain. The cannery quickly grew, and by 2008, they were exporting small, net-wrapped tins to Europe, the U.S., and other markets around the world. Despite their rapid growth, Conservas De Cambados prides themselves on maintaining pristine culinary traditions that are present in each tin of seafood sold. It has now been 35 years of Conservas de Cambados, and despite their notoriety in conservas culture around the globe, their relatively small facility of 8,200 square feet continues to uphold artisanal standards with sustainability in mind.

I was immediately enamored by the shiny lettering and trademark net wrapped tins and cracked open their Mussels from Galicia in marinade for a late dinner on a Monday. The king size mussels, describes as such on the packaging, are fried in olive oil and packed in a vibrant reddish orange marinade called Esabeche sauce, made from vinegar and smoked paprika. The mussels were arranged neatly, looking plump and begging to be devoured. There were only 4 in the tin, which speaks to their incredibly large size. That larger size is a very desirable characteristic when eating mussels, clams and other bivalves. Harvested at the peak of size and fat content after fattening up all season in the warm, nutrient dense waters, they are perfectly plumped and ready for the cold season. The texture of the mussels was very tender, so much so they nearly fell apart when speared with a small fork or bitten into. My first bite was a pleasant surprise, not slimy, briny, fishy, or chewy at all; these mussels were straight up decadent. After eating two alone to fully experience what a king size mussel has to offer, my curious palate took over and I turned to my fridge for some adventurous accompaniments. I unearthed some cannellini beans and cornichons, mashed the beans with salt, pepper and olive oil, spread it on a small piece of toast with the cornichons, and perched the last of the mussels atop, with a drizzle of the marinade to tie it together. The creamy richness from the beans and mussels along with the crunch of the toast and cornichons, was a composed and satisfying bite with the smallest amount of additional labor.

Days later, I dove into their Scallops in Galician sauce and clams in brine. The Scallops, packed in a thick tomato sauce with pieces of onions and herbs throughout, gave a tickle of sweet heat at the back of my throat and were so packed with flavor that I didn’t want anything other than some light crackers to accompany them. The sauciness left at the bottom of the tin made a perfect dressing for a spinach salad with a little chevre crumbled on top as a side dish.

The clams from Galicia in brine, the most simple and delicate of the 3 tins, rose above the other two in the most elegant manner. After the first taste, I felt a cool sea breeze come across my senses, and wanted nothing more than to frolic along the Galician coast. I couldn’t help but devour the whole tin with only a fork and the occasional dash of Espinaler sauce. Packed in translucent milky brine, these clams had the perfect amount of salinity and chew.

There’s a sense of ease and joy when cracking open a can of plump mussels, glistening sardines, or whichever tin speaks to you. These tins have an extensive shelf life, are cooked and seasoned to perfection, and ready to eat straight from the tin. As a company that places a high value on sustainability and upholding tradition, the offerings from Conservas de Cambados are nothing short of excellent.

I can’t decide whether it’s the cute and confident fish logo, the extensive family history, or just the pure delicious flavors that draw me to Espinaler. Whichever it may be, each tin of fish or bottle of sauce represents generations of hard work. The packaging is playful yet enticing, and what lies within each tin embodies an important piece of tapas culture. In addition, Espinaler’s sauce has developed a cult following of late and has become an invaluable condiment to many that try it.

Espinaler was born in 1896 in the area that is now Barcelona. Miquel Riera I Prat opened Taverna Espinaler to provide the classic Mediterranean mix of wine, snacks, and familial ambience to the villagers. When the Spanish Civil War broke out in the 1930’s, Miquel’s daughter Francisca, bravely took over the family business despite being a widowed mother of four. Located in the first city to be introduced to vermouth in Spain in the 19^th century, the founder’s grandson Joan Tapas I Riera began adapting the business in the 1940’s by selling high quality vermouth, which quickly became one of their most popular products.

Joan continued to expand Espinaler’s repertoire of products, introducing fine Galician preserves. His wife then created the noteworthy Espinaler sauce, to perfectly compliment seafood, olives, chips and any salty snacks. Some of my first encounters with tinned seafood were complimented by this sauce, and soon became a must-have for my chronic snacking. The vinegar-based sauce is made with a special selection of spices, quickly becoming their first iconic product, and spurred the Espinaler revolution in the 1970s. The company’s focus on fine preserved seafood began with a third generation family member, Miquel Tapias Roldós, who took over the business and started travelling across Spain to the northwest corner region of Galicia. Galicia, known for its estuaries and prominent canning industry, is where he carefully selected the best preserves at auction and continued to pass down the importance of knowledge in choice, which spurred the marketing of Espinaler brand tinned fish.

With the arrival of the 21^st century, the long-lived family business expanded throughout Spain, and two Warehouse-Tavern-Stores were opened just a decade apart. Since then, run by fifth generation Tapias brothers, Espinaler has expanded to offering its wide range of preserved shellfish, sauces, liqueurs, and other products to Europe, Asia, and America, most importantly Caputo’s in good ole’ SLC. With such a rich history, David and Miki Tapias continue to strive to uphold the values that are true to the Espinaler brand and were taught to them: “To offer a very high quality product, produced and packed at the right time.”

Whether you have a tin of baby sardines with some hot sauce a la carte as a mid-day snack, or an arugula salad topped with pickled veggies and a tin of white tuna in pickled sauce, you’ve made an excellent choice. Pour yourself a glass of vermouth or your favorite Spanish wine, and transport yourself to a cozy tapas bar buried in beautiful Barcelona (I know that’s what I’m doing), and try a tin of fish that’s not only packed with the finest ingredients, but also contains over a century of family history, and Spanish culture.

With the nature of my job as a cheese monger, I have the opportunity to help customers with creating the ideal charcuterie board to share with their loved ones. Many may assume I am some sort of expert creator of all things cheese and meat; but really, I can be just as indecisive and lost as anyone else. There are too many good things to choose from and trying to cater to a variety of palates can be quite a challenge for anyone.

For this holiday season, I’m going to keep it simple. I’m choosing some no fuss snacking that is guaranteed to keep my family occupied while I wrestle with pie dough. Robiola Bosina is the perfect cheese for the job. This small format, soft ripened cheese is a creamier alternative to Brie, and is made with a mix of cow and sheep’s milk, giving it a bit of delicate funk. It is made by Caseificio Dell’Alta Langa, based in a small village just south of Alba in Piedmont. This area of northern Italy is famous for its wines and truffles, laden with lush vineyards, quaint villages, and medieval castles.

Striving to keep tradition alive while still maintaining the highest quality standards, this cheese maker offers more than 20 handmade cheeses. Robiola Bosina is going to be the centerpiece for AT LEAST one holiday board this year.

Robiola’s form is a small 4-inch square, making it the perfect size to be served cut diagonally (or left intact, your choice) with the halves offset on top of one another for some height and surrounded by your favorite accompaniments. Those may be dried fruits such as figs or apricots, some crostini and jam, a rich and herby cooked ham from your local deli (ahem, Caputo’s), or maybe some bright and buttery olives. With its mild, palatable rind, I can’t imagine why Robiola wouldn’t be eaten in its entirety before anyone has a chance to ask questions. If you’re feeling fancy, consider wrapping it in some puff pastry with brown sugar and fruit and bake it until the pastry is a golden brown and the cheese oozes when cut into.

Tis the season to entertain, but if you find yourself stressing over an elaborate (and often spendy) board, there’s no shame in taking the simplistic route with one knockout cheese of your choice.

With Thanksgiving around the corner, I could feel the pie-anxiety sneaking up on me one chilly fall morning. Baking pies has never been my forte. I had a few hours to kill and some seasonal ingredients in the fridge begging to be used. I figured it was time to come up with what I intended to contribute to Thanksgiving dinner. As the baker in my family, a pie seemed to be the best option. I cracked open my favorite baking book for ideas and was almost immediately swayed away from making a pie, thank God! A gorgeous galette called my name from the first page I flipped to.

A galette is essentially a pie without the dish. Although this free-standing “pie” of sorts is not meant to hold your creamy pumpkin or other custard pie filling from your grandma’s recipe book, it never hurts to switch things up. It may even help you win the unspoken Thanksgiving cook off between relatives. A galette is best suited to be filled with more texturally diverse ingredients such as pieces of sautéed apples, pears, squash, or root veggies and served as a delightful hors d’oeuvre or dessert. It saves a dirty dish, and looks just as, if not more, impressive for the Thanksgiving table.

The pastry dough I used for this recipe is a bit more delicate than your average pie crust; therefore, it requires a more attentive process. As a result, the finished product has much less of a risk of a soggy bottom and is much flakier and easier to handle than a piece of pie. Don’t hesitate to use a pastry dough recipe that has always worked for you. This, or any galette, is versatile enough to be made using any pastry dough of your choosing.

The filling is a simple combination of caramelized onions, roasted squash, herbs, a little spice, and my favorite goat milk cheese, Chabrin! I used Caputo’s cave aged Chabrin Reserve. This Chabrin is aged an additional 6 months in our cheese caves, making a more delicate, fudgy version of its original French-basque version. This cheese lends the perfect amount of funk to the filling to balance out the sweetness from the squash and onions, without feeling like you’re getting kicked in the teeth by a goat in each bite. A young Chabrin would also be a wonderful alternative to the reserve, as well as any other mild goats cheese (or any funky cheese that suits your fancy).

This is perfect to serve before your Thanksgiving meal, or even just as a seasonal snack to share with friends or loved ones.

Chabrin, Squash, and Onion Galette
Serves 6-8

Tartine bakery’s Flaky Tart Dough
*recipe is halved from original version, to fit single galette

• 1 cup unsalted butter, very cold
• ½ cup water
• ¾ tsp salt
• 2 1/3 cup All-Purpose Flour

To make the dough, cut the butter into 1-inch cubes and put them in the freezer. Measure the water, dissolve the salt into it, and put it in freezer as well. Chill the butter and water for about 10 minutes.

Measure all of the flour onto your work surface. Spread the flour out into a rectangle about 1/3 inch deep. Scatter the butter cubes over the flour. Toss a little of the flour over the butter so that your rolling pin won’t stick and then begin rolling. When the butter starts flattening out into long, thin pieces, use a bench scraper to scoop up the sides of the rectangle so that it is again the size you started with. Repeat the rolling and scraping 3 or 4 times. Make a well in the center and pour all of the water into the well. Using the bench scraper, scoop the sides of the dough onto the center, cutting (mixing in with the bench scraper) the water into the dough. Keep scraping and cutting until the dough is a shaggy mass, and then shape the dough into a rectangle about 10×14 inches. Lightly dust the top with flour. Roll out the rectangle until it is half again as large and then scrape the top, bottom, and sides together again to the original size and reroll. Repeat 3 or 4 times until you have a smooth cohesive dough. You should have a neat rectangle measuring about 10×14 inches. Transfer the dough to a large baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and chill well, about 1 hour.

Filling

• 2 cups butternut squash, cut in ½ inch cubes
• 1 Tbs unsalted butter
• 1 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
• 1 large or 2 small sweet onions, cut into thin strips
• 1 tsp fresh sage
• 1 tsp fresh thyme
• 1/3 lb Chabrin Reserve cheese, grated
• salt and freshly cracked pepper to taste
• 1 egg
• 1 Tbs water

Preheat oven to 350. While dough is chilling, toss butternut squash in olive oil, salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes, and roast on a lined sheet pan for 30 minutes, or until squash can be easily pierced with a fork.
While squash is roasting, melt butter in a pan, and add onions. Cook on medium-low heat for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally. Once onions are half-way caramelized, season with salt and herbs. Add a tablespoon of water if needed.
Remove squash from oven and carefully combine with onions. When cool enough, fold in Chabrin (or cheese of choice), and season to taste.

Assembly

When dough has chilled, fold dough over itself 2-3 times and re-roll until you have a circle measuring about 14 inches in width. Transfer back to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and chill until firm, about 10 minutes. When chilled, fill the center of the dough with prepared filling, leaving 3-4 inches of dough to fold over filling.
Beat egg and 1 Tablespoon water, and lightly brush over the dough. Bake on a lined sheet pan 50-60 minutes, or until galette looks golden. Top with flaky seat salt of choice.

While the best season of the year was in full swing (a.k.a., cherry season), I found myself with heaps of gorgeous cherries from the Farmers Market. With an intense desire to bake something unique and seasonal, I could not seem to find a recipe that didn’t require the tedious task of pitting each cherry.

A few days later while discussing the upcoming Tour of France class in a meeting with Adri, she suggested I make a clafoutis as the dessert. The clafoutis originated in Limousin, in the southwest-central region of France. It is a traditional French baked custard with whole cherries—emphasis on the ‘whole’ part. The most important part of baking with whole cherries is that they consist of the primary chemical in almond extract. That gives the dessert a subtle almond essence serving as a beautiful compliment to the final product. I quickly came to find out that the annoying little pit inside those juicy cherries contain a chemical that creates cyanide, however completely safe in small amounts… I promise!

While traditionally made with the early summer fruit, the base is versatile enough to be baked as the seasons change. It is delicious to be made with various berries, late summer’s plump stone fruits, or even chunks of ripe apples, or pears. What’s not to love about that?

After some more research, I finally was set to try out Tartine’s recipe, to gain my own understanding of what a clafoutis is really like. I followed the recipe precisely (a rare occurrence for me), but was still uncertain of what I was looking for. I pulled a slightly wobbly custard from the oven, smelling of caramel and looking stained sporadically with vibrant cherry juices. I indulged in a small piece and took the rest for an inspection from my coworkers—who only had positive reviews to give. While gratifying to hear, I wasn’t sure it was the clafoutis for me, it seemed a bit too wet.

After some more research, David Lebovitz’s recipe seemed to be the next best option, calling for a touch more flour and less milk. Clafoutis pt. 2 came two days later. With pt. 2, came more ambiguous feedback from coworkers. Being the stubborn gal I am, I insisted on making it ONE last time before deciding a final recipe to present at the class.

Clafoutis pt. 3 came with a similar recipe to pt. 2, however with one big difference. Rather than using fresh whole cherries, I used the Italian Luxardo cherries and cut down some of the sugar. This last one only seemed to make my life more difficult. After hearing feedback from all sides giving me even less of a sense of direction, it was finally the time that I resulted to using my own baking intuition.

After discovering the beautiful role that both fresh cherries, and Luxardo cherries had in this dessert, my final recipe combines the best of both worlds. To respect the rarity of the original dessert’s use of whole cherries, they remained. I also used some syrup from the Luxardo in place of some of the sugar. That syrup gave the dessert another level of moisture that I didn’t find in David Lebovitz’s original recipe, and a richer sweetness that white sugar simply did not give on its own. It was perfect once chilled, and drizzled with more Luxardo syrup, and a cherry on top.

Clafoutis

• 2/3 cup sugar
• 1 Tbs Luxardo syrup
• pinch salt
• 1 ¾ cup milk
• ½ vanilla bean, split
• ½ cup flour
• 3 eggs
• 1 lb whole cherries (or fruit of choice)
• raw sugar
• Luxardo cherries, plus additional syrup

Preheat over to 375. Butter a ceramic tart dish or any shallow baking dish, and disperse the whole cherries in the greased pan.
Combine sugar, Luxardo syrup, salt, milk and vanilla bean in a small saucepan. Cook until sugar dissolves and the mixture is steamy. While that is heating, whisk eggs in a medium size bowl. Sift flour into egg mixture and mix just until combined.
Remove milk mixture from heat, and slowly pour through mesh sieve into the egg mixture, while whisking.
Once the batter comes together, pour it over the cherries and bake for 25 minutes. Remove from oven, and raise the heat to 450. Sprinkle raw sugar evenly across the surface and return to oven for 5-7 minutes, or until it looks caramelized. Remove and let cool on a wire rack until serving.

Substitutions for cherries:
-Berries such as blueberries, blackberries, or raspberries, can be used as a direct substitution for the whole cherries.
-If using juicier stone fruits such as peaches, nectarines, or plums, cut back on the amount of milk by 1-2 Tbs.
– Cut pieces of fruit into ½ inch chunks.